I just arrived back in Canada from two weeks of travel in Chile. On
the numerous flights back from South America I thought that it would be a
great idea to blog about my experiences there. I realised that what I
needed to say could not really be expressed in one blog; instead, I'd
need to cover it in a short series. There were three major threads to my
trip, and I'll address each of them in the next week or so in separate
blogs. The first will be my impressions about seeing Chile and South
America. The second will be about the socio-economic realities of Chile
and my insight as a westerner. The final post will talk about privilege
and travel.
I hope you'll take the time to read some of
my material whether or not you've travelled or know anything about South
America. As I mentioned, this post will look at my individual
experience with Chile. It'll be the most informal of all the posts as
I'll be effectively reflecting on two weeks of soaking in a beautiful
and misunderstood country.
I stepped out of the
aeroport in Santiago into the warm air. It was sunny, and I was
surrounded by green. While flying down, I peered out of the tiny
porthole beside me to notice that Santiago was a beautiful island
enclosed by towering green and white mountains. The city appeared to
perched on a desert, brown and sandy. When I was on the ground it was a
grassy paradise. We took a shuttle into downtown, along the way passing
shantytowns and parks. Once at the terminal, we shunted ourselves into
the Santiago Metro, which is an amazing public transit system. It was
clean and busy, at no matter what hour. I noticed that people sat with
their smart phones and were listening to English pop music. Once I
emerged from the metro station I was standing in a beautiful plaza with
statues and trees. Cars navigated the roundabout and I stared up at
towering apartments and offices. I felt as though I was in Venice and
Vancouver.
I only managed to convince Kelly that we
stay in Santiago for one night. I was enamoured and intrigued by the
bustling city of nearly six million. It was the first time I was in a
place that people might consider non-western or developing, and I wanted
to see what the city had to offer. The most vivid memory I have is of
standing at the gate to the national stadium. Used by Pinochet in the
mid-1970s as a site to torture dissidents, the stadium is unassuming.
There is no plaque, no statue. No commemoration and, sadly, no mention
of its terrifying past. I stared at the field, locked behind red bars,
and I thought about the tens of thousands who disappeared, many of whom
had been held here. It was shocking to me to see the degree to which the
suffering was erased, disavowed. In the aeroport two weeks later I
watched Universidad de Chile play there while the crowds cheered in
delight some four decades after the arena was host to crimes against
humanity.
The next day we trekked by bus to Valparaìso
and Viña del Mar, two beautiful cities along the Pacific coast. They hug
the shoreline, bounded to the sea by the sprawling mountains.
Valparaìso is an industrial port city, and it has all the grime despite
being adorned in the most beautiful reds and oranges and yellows, all
set against the green and blue its surroundings. It is a city rich in
character and culture - a site for immigration and the entry point to
Chile for most of its existence. Only twenty kilometres away is Viña del
Mar, which is a flourishing resort community full of flashy cars and
European tourists. The feel is completely different than that of its
neighbour, though it's something to appreciate for its uniqueness. It's
commercial, unlike anything else I saw in Chile, including the capital.
Wealth is displayed virtually everywhere, in the architecture, in the
public gardens, in the people. It was truly fascinating to see these two
cities, stuck side-by-side.
For the rest of the trip
Kelly and I were in the southern reaches of Chile, in Patagonia. We
visited Punta Arenas before taking the bus north to Puerto Natales.
After spending some time in the small community, we headed to Torres del
Paine, one of South America's most famous natural wonders. The park is a
massive sanctuary, but it's full of hikers from the global north,
myself included. I felt a sense of freedom being away from civilisation,
though I never escaped thinking about the degree to which tourism was
damaging this fragile natural environment. Nevertheless, the trekking
and camping was unforgettable. I saw my first iceberg, marvelled at the
wildlife, and was surrounded by towering mountains and pristine glacial
lakes.
Sadly, visiting those six locales took up my two
weeks, and I headed back home to Canada. Chile was a place I'll always
remember fondly, and I already look forward to going back there
sometime. The flight home was bittersweet as I longed to remain in my
new habitat, but I found myself ready to come back to my real life. In
the dying hours of my trip, I made a commitment to myself to write a
short series of blogs about my experience. I hope you enjoyed this one,
and stay tuned my next post which will examine the socio-economic
condition of Chile.
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